Trans-Siberian Railway 2 - Ulaan Bataar & the steppes of Mongolia

Photos: http://transsiberianrailwayexperience.shutterfly.com

After the peace and calm of the Gobi Desert I headed to the bright lights and big city of Mongolia's capital, Ulaan Bataar. Ok, bright lights might be a bit of an exaggeration but it is a pretty big city (over a million people) and a far cry from the remoteness of the Gobi Desert ger camp. Our guide Orkhon travelled with us on the train from Sainshand to UB, and continued to be our guide for the rest of our time in Mongolia. Aside from enjoying her company and energy immensely, I have to say I was glad to have her on the train with us as the carriage attendant came to tell us that that there would be a 30 minute stop in the middle of the night “in a town with bad people” and to make sure our doors and windows were locked so they wouldn't reach in while we were sleeping. That's one rather important piece of information I'm glad we had a translator for.

Arriving in UB in the morning of Day 5, we had breakfast in a Mongolian fast food joint (which served very good Mongolian dumplings Orkhon assured us) and had a quick tour of the city before we headed to another ger camp an hour outside of the city on the open steppes. In UB, we went up to the Zaisan Hill Memorial for an incredible vista of the city (and a local hang out for UB's bored youth). We then went to the centre of town to see the main square, the very impressive Mongolian House of Parliament, and other important city buildings. There was also a parade for Mongolia's (three) Olympic athletes that were heading to Beijing, which made for some great people watching. There were lots of posters and blaring loudspeakers while we walked around the city as well because the Parliamentary elections that were being held the week after, which I'm glad we missed because there were huge city riots on the day. Apparently every man between the ages of 15 and 65
were out on the streets getting up to mayhem.

After our city tour (I would return to explore UB in a few days time), we were taken to our next ger camp for a few more days of traditional Mongolian life. At the Elstei Ger Camp I somehow snagged a huge four bed ger all to myself while married couples were given two bed gers that leaked during subsequent storms, as I found out later. The food was still delicious and coming in enormous proportions supplied, interestingly, by an Indian chef who spoke excellent Mongolian. The camp was even plusher than the Gobi Desert camp but I don't think it had the same character. It was a little more touristy with a proper shower block, a bar in the dining hall, and even had a little 'tourist shop ger'. The shop actually served my purposes very well though, as I achieved one of my goals for Mongolian: buying a pair of Mongolian boots. They are fabulous and everyone admired them, all confirming that for the first time in recorded history that a “hotel” souvenir shop was actually cheaper than souvenir shops in town. They really came in handy too, as it rained quite a lot for the rest of my time in Mongolia and were perfect waterproof hiking/riding boots.

Which brings me to the second of my achieved goals for Mongolia: horseback riding through the open steppes. It's a good thing that Mongolian ponies are a strong breed because I looked a little like an adult riding a child's bike, my legs hanging down near the poor creatures knees. It was amazing, we rode out to see the free roaming sheep and goats herds, and the rain held off just long enough that afternoon for me to also hike up to the big hill behind the camp. The camp dog had seen me leaving and she joyously bounded after me, accompanying me all the way. It was a special moment for me, sitting next to Dog on the top of that hill, looking out across the beautiful countryside.

While staying in the steppes, I also visited a traditional nomadic family where we were fed salted tea and sweetened butter (I think they mixed up the labels on the tins), and also went to see a giant metal monument of a mounted Genghis Khan. It was just being finished and quite a sight, but sadly the surrounding area was sadly marked for the construction of what would essentially become a tourist district. They were going to build 200 gers, shops, a hotel and restaurant so I think I'll be one of the last to see that corner of the country looking remotely untouched.

After the camp, I had another day and night in UB, where I did some exploring through the backstreets of the city where I guess a lot of tourists don't go from the looks I was getting. I bought a pair of matching camel hair slippers for Mum and Dad (as a thank you for bailing me out at the last second in Beijing), and a pair for Leeann and Golo (as a thank you for putting up with me for nearly two months in London) and sent them off to their respective parts of the world. And I sent my boots back to Australia too, to assure those of you who tutted at me for breaking the second cardinal rule of backpacking: travel light (the first of course being, always know where your towel is). I don't know when I'll be able to wear the boots next anyway, as I've got perpetual summer for the next 12 months, which I just had to rub in for those of you huddled over your computers in the Southern hemisphere.

I also went to the excellent Natural History Museum which had some impressive fossils. Mongolia is a really interesting geological area, and have a lot of very important archaeological sites. There a lot of coal and natural resources so it is unfortunately being plundered for its riches at an alarming rate to try to satisfy the thirst of China and other developing countries. I unfortunately missed Mongolia's biggest national festival, which would have been fantastic, with celebrations throughout the country of Mongolia's tradition sports; wrestling, horse racing and archery.

But on my last day I did find “Aura”, a bar/restaurant that actually surpassed the kitsch levels set by Chinese establishments, simply because it had a more authentic Wild West saloon feel about it. I don't like eating in touristy places so I walked in a unlikely looking unmarked door and when I heard strains of ABBA floating down the flashing pink fairy lighted passage, I knew I'd hit gold. The place was complete with diamond shaped mirrored tiles on the wall, pink neon lights under a green bar with red and white panels, faux brick fireplace with a gold plated sailing ship on top, fake saloon doors, all manor of certificates on the walls, a mixture of shiny and furry wallpaper, the occasional Buddhist icon, and of course the tackiness of decades old advertising for all kinds of alcohol. Absolute gold I tell you, and they make a mean noodle soup.

Getting on the train to Russia, I was tingling with excitement. Finally, Mother Russia! My anticipation was only tempered by my sadness to farewell Orkhon, whom I'd really come to love in our week together. Where I'd lost a friend though, I'd gained two because I found out that Becca and Clark who'd I'd met briefly in the second ger camp were my cabin mates to Irkutsk, my first stop in Russia. We became fast friends and looking back now they are so much a part of what I loved about the trip. In the train, we whittled away many hours talking, laughing, eating and drinking, and I can't wait to go to the States to embark on an ambitious new road trip I'm plotting. But that's another trip for another year...